A few days ago I was surfing with a friend of mine and what appeared to be a perfect wave appeared on the horizon. So, I started paddling for it. From where my friend was sitting he could see exactly what the wave was going to do, so I shouted to him “is it going to close out?” and he yelled back “no , just GO!!.” By the time I had tried to go it was too late.Hesitation killed it for me.I am
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